Photo by Melissa HornThis recent addition to the Bowery's gourmet scene was begging for a test drive. The host offered me the choice of a table or a seat at the bar. I opted for the more welcoming bar with its mesmerizing array of whiskeys, ports, rums and aperitivi. 
Photo by Melissa HornThe cute blonde waitress Emilia was fantastic: she guided me through the daunting beverage selection, choosing a refreshing Cynar Gin Fizz to go with my simple pizza bianca tradizionale.A few sips into the gin fizz and I was feeling the effects — in fact, I almost fell off the bar stool on several occasions before finishing my bev. The pizza bianca was straightforward and a dash of red pepper flakes and chili oil made for excellent taste enhancers. Eager for another fizz, but mindful not to get too wasted on an early Monday afternoon, I abstained from a second round. Instead, Emilia brought on the dessert menu and I quizzed her on the gelati and sorbet flavors — she got a B-. But I forgave her because she suggested the pear tart, artfully seasoned with rosemary and topped with a dollop of peanut brittle-ricotta gelato. Seeking revenge after the gelato quiz, Emilia tried to sucker me in with the offer of a lovely sparkling Lambrusco to pair with the tart, but my will power prevailed. The crostata was yet another crowd-pleaser and I scarfed it down with fat-girl delight. We chatted for a bit about sleep, detox spa retreats and Pulino's before I paid the check and walked stumbled out. Next time you're in the mood for pizza or a good cocktail, go to Pulino's, stop at the bar, say hi to Emilia and order the gin fizz. You'll thank me.